Ultimate Guide to Taiwan: Asia’s best kept hidden gem

Taiwan is Asia’s most underrated country to visit, and honestly, I kind of like it like that. It’s a small island country rich with gems – from bustling cities, to small towns, to countryside, to amazing nature, plus amazing food and friendly people – Taiwan has it all

 

Tea plantations in Shizhuo, a small town at the base of Alishan and one of my favorite areas of Taiwan

 

Taiwan, to me

I’m Taiwanese-American. My parents are from Taiwan and moved to the States when they were 30, which is where I was born and raised. I had only been to Taiwan once as a child, and this was my first time visiting my own roots again since I was 13. I honestly hadn’t been particularly interested in visiting before, as there exist many parts of Taiwanese culture that I’m not a huge fan of. But after being in this part of the world and traveling Southeast Asia for a while, I figured I had no more excuse anymore to dodge a visit. And so I went.

And I’m so, so glad I did, because Taiwan ended up blowing me away and surprising me in all the best ways possible. Not only did I find unexpected and beautiful connection with my own culture, but from a traveler perspective, it also ended up being one of my favorite countries I’ve visited.

I loved a lot of things. I love that there’s such a diversity of environments to experience, all within easy reach from each other. There’s vibrant big city life, small town countryside life, and tons of stunning nature. Everything from dramatic mountain ranges, to peaceful forests, to tropical beach life, there’s something for everyone to enjoy. There exists a nice blend of modern convenience and traditional culture, where things have order and make sense, yet tradition and a sense of old school authenticity is retained. But perhaps what I loved most, was the culture of Taiwanese people. Nowhere have I met such a genuinely kind, friendly, and generous culture of people, who are always so willing to help without expecting a single thing back. It feels like a genuinely community oriented culture, where you can ask anybody, anywhere, for anything, and they will always be happy to help.

In very few other places, can I say that I really loved everywhere I went. But between Taiwan’s diverse range of places to experience, from the mountains, to the coast, to the cities, to the countryside, I truly enjoyed every single place. Taiwan is also the safest place in the world that I’ve experienced, and there’s a beauty in how at ease you feel in terms of safety.

Taiwan is also relatively undiscovered by tourists, so if you’re looking for somewhere with few other tourists, where you can immerse in local life, live in a world of safety, and experience super friendly people, an amazing food culture, and diverse landscapes and cities, it’s a perfect place. It’s a small country packed with so many gems, and with a well developed public transit system, most places are easy to access. With so much of Asia becoming overcrowded with tourism, Taiwan is a true escape from the crowds and an opportunity to immerse amongst local life.


Getting to Taiwan

When to go to Taiwan

Where to go in Taiwan

How long to spend in Taiwan

Recommended Taiwan itineraries

How to get around Taiwan

Taiwanese food guide

Other useful information about visiting Taiwan

Getting to Taiwan

View of Taipei 101 from Elephant Mountain

The best way to Taiwan is by flight. There is also one ferry port into Taiwan in the north, to a town called Keelung, that you can reach from China. But given most people aren’t taking this route, I’ll focus on the ways to arrive by air.

Taiwan has 2 international airports, TPE in the north by Taipei, and KHH in the south by Kaohsiung. TPE is a bigger international airport and better connected to the world. If coming from a faraway country, such as Europe or the US, it’s normally cheaper and more direct to fly into TPE. But if coming from a nearby country, such as elsewhere in Asia, it’s likely similar cost and just as easy to fly into KHH.

The other thing to consider is your route. Most people fly into TPE because they visit Taipei first, but depending on your route, it could make sense to fly in and out of either TPE or KHH. If costs are the same, I would recommend figuring out your route first, and then deciding which airport to fly in and out of. Getting between Taipei and Kaohsiung only takes around 2 hours by high-speed rail, so if plans change and you need to reach one from the other, it’s relatively easy to do so.

In general, I would recommend flying into Taipei, making your way south and either flying out of Kaohsiung, or if you have enough time to do an entire loop of Taiwan, circling back up and flying out of Taipei.

When to go to Taiwan

When to go for the best weather

Taiwan’s weather ranges drastically throughout the year, and the climate during your visit will heavily impact your experience. Summer can be unbearably hot and humid while winter can be quite cold. Spring and fall have by far the most pleasant weather. For the best weather, best time to visit Taiwan is from March to May and October to November, with the best months being April and November.

In the winter, from December to February, the weather can be very cold, especially in the north. There, you’ll need a warm jacket and beanie. In the south, the weather actually remains quite pleasant and dry, and is perhaps even the best during winter.

Summer is Taiwan’s typhoon and rainy season. The weather gets very hot and humid, especially in the north. The south gets equally hot, though not as humid. The east is where typhoons hit, making storms common and weather unpredictable there. I would recommend avoiding June, July, and August for your visit to Taiwan.

Understand the weather by region

North (Taipei) – Cool, damp winters and hot, humid summers make the north feel lush but often overcast. The north tends to be cooler and much more humid than the rest of Taiwan, especially in winter when it’s often gray and drizzly. Summers are hot, sticky, and prone to sudden storms. Overall, expect more rain and fewer consistently sunny days.

South (Kaohsiung, Tainan) – Warm, sunny, and reliably tropical with far more blue-sky days year-round. The south is warm, sunny, and has some of the most reliably good weather in Taiwan. Winters are mild and dry, while summers are hot but generally brighter than the north. If you’re chasing sunshine, this is your best bet.

Central-west (Taichung) – Generally drier and sunnier, with the most consistent day-to-day conditions. The area around Taichung has some of the most stable and balanced weather in Taiwan. It’s generally drier and sunnier than the north, not as blazing hot as the south, with fewer rainy days overall. Temperatures can still get very hot in summer, but day-to-day conditions are more predictable.

East (Hualien, Taitung) – Ocean-driven weather brings breeze, sudden rain, and dramatic shifts. The east coast feels more rugged and weather-exposed, with breezy conditions and quick changes throughout the day. It’s less humid than the west in summer, but more prone to wind and typhoons. Expect a mix of sun, clouds, and sudden rain.

Mountains (Alishan) – Cooler, misty, and often cloud-covered, offering a refreshing escape from the heat. The mountains are noticeably cooler year-round and offer a break from the heat. Weather here is often misty, with frequent clouds and afternoon rain, especially in warmer months. It’s less about sunshine and more about cool air and atmospheric views.


Holiday season and impact on travel

Christmas and New Years – Not heavily celebrated in Taiwan. Since it’s not a Christian country, Christmas is treated like a normal day for most people, with a majority not having the day off work. If you’re looking for somewhere festive to ring in the holidays, Taiwan won’t be your best bet. You’ll still find holiday lights here and there as well as firework displays at New Years Eve, but it’s not a holiday hotspot. I spent Christmas and New Years 2025 there. We went out for a nice Christmas dinner and visited Taitung’s New Years Eve celebration – a full night of live music, a night market, and fireworks – it was lowkey but really nice.

Chinese New Years – This is by far the biggest holiday in Taiwan. Think Christmas and New Years combined. The holiday takes place during February or March, and everyone gets the week off work. Most people travel home to be with family or leave the country for vacation, and many businesses close for several days. In some countries, celebrations can be found all over the street, but in Taiwan, it’s a holiday celebrated inside the home. Cities will feel quiet and you won’t see much going on outside. Because restaurants and shops will be closed and it’s not a lively time to visit, I wouldn’t recommend visiting Taiwan during this time.

Other holidays – There are number of long-weekend holidays such as Tomb Sweeping Festival, Dragon Boat Festival, and Mid-Autumn Festival, during which domestic travel gets really busy. Taiwanese people are workaholics so when they get a long weekend off, they rejoice and travel the country. You don’t need to plan around visiting or not visiting during any of these times as the impact is not so significant, but if you are traveling over one of those long weekends, book accommodation and transportation (e.g. the train) in advance, as it can fill up.

Where to go in Taiwan

Taipei: the capital of the north, a lively though liveable city with endless things to see and eat

Neihu, my grandparent’s neighborhood in Taipei

When most people think of Taiwan, they think of Taipei. Known for its liveliness as a city and towering Taipei 101 skyscraper, Taipei lives up to its hype. It’s a big and bustling city, yet at the same time, feels relatively calm, organized, and easy to navigate. I’m not usually a big city person, but I actually really like Taipei.

While Taipei is a big, sprawling city, it also feels dense and compact. It’s made up of many different neighborhoods that each have their own personality, while all still feeling cohesive. There’s the tourist hub of Ximending, the cute, local area of Da’an, the fancy, expensive district of Xinyi, the traditional neighborhood of Neihu, and lots more. Everything is well-connected by MRT (the subway system), so it’s easy to explore no matter where you are.

Taipei is a city full of good and cheap food everywhere. Most places are local shops selling traditional Taiwanese food, with plenty of street food vendors and local markets all around. You’ll also be able to find real, sitdown restaurants, though these are actually less common. There are also countless bubble tea and dessert shops, as well as many cozy cafes.

One thing I love about Taipei, is its blend of modern and traditional. Things work well here and are relatively modern and efficient, but at the same time, there’s still very much this traditional, old school feeling.

Another thing that makes Taipei unique is its proximity to nature. Within 30 minutes, you can go from the middle of the city to hiking in the mountains or soaking in hot springs. In Taipei, you can spend your days seeing the sights, wandering night markets, café hopping, or heading out of the city for a quick escape.

I’ve spent over a month in Taipei across two visits, and it’s a city I’ve come to really enjoy. It’s great for both sightseeing, and for everyday life – wandering neighborhoods, trying new cafés, and just settling into the rhythm, while always having something new to discover. It’s a great place if you want the convenience and culture of a major city, with easy access to nature, without an overwhelming pace.

See my full guide to Taipei here.

Kaohsiung: the main city of the south with a laidback, coastal feel

Liuhe night market getting setup at sunset

Kaohsiung is the main city in the south of Taiwan, and it feels noticeably more relaxed than Taipei. In general, the south is much more laidback than the north. In Kaohsiung, you still get big city energy with high-rises and wide streets lined with restaurants and shops in the city center, but it’s balanced with quieter neighborhoods, easy access to nature, sunshine, and an all around more laidback atmosphere. People say that the more south you go in Taiwan, the more the culture becomes closer to that of Southeast Asia. And, I would agree. You’ll notice that Taipei feels more like a proper metropolis, while Kaohsiung has a more laid back atmosphere while retaining a city energy.

While Kaohsiung has a proper city center, which is where you’ll find the famous night markets, my favorite area is Yancheng (the Arts District), which feels more like a small town than a city. On weekends, there are markets by the river, people hanging out at the park, and a generally slower pace of life. You’re also close to the coast – you can spend the day riding a bike, surfing, or catching sunset along the water on Cijin Island, and forget that you’re actually in a major city. Overall, I really enjoy Kaohsiung for city life without the intensity.

Tainan: a quaint city in the south, known for food, walkability, and cozy vibes

Cute Fuzhong walking street near Confucius Temple

Tainan is a small city in the south, also with a relatiely laidback vibe compared to the north. I really like it here. It’s the kind of place where you spend your time wandering small streets, discovering cute shops, and just getting a little lost. There’s plenty to see, but the main appeal is the atmosphere: cute cafés, small streets, and a surprisingly good cocktail bar scene with a bit of a speakeasy feel. It’s just an enjoyable place to slow down and explore.

It feels more like a cross between a city and a town. It’s a small city that does retain a certain city energy with its center, that’s compact, walkable, and busy, but there are also plenty of cute areas where you can really just wander around and feel at home in. There’s also a lack of skyscrapers, which contributes to its local, laidback charm.

Tainan is relatively small, compared to Kaohsiung and Taipei, and has less landmarks to see than these other cities. If you want to just “see all the sights”, you can do so in one or two days. But Tainan is also a comfortable and cozy place to just wander around and experience a normal day in the life. If I had to say, Tainan is probably the city that feels most touristy in Taiwan. While the other cities mostly just have people living their lives, Tainan has this, as well as many cute areas that are catered to tourists. It doesn’t feel overly touristy, but it is noticeable. Still, I really like Tainan as a cute little city to explore.

Taitung: a very quaint and local city in the east, surrounded by nature where life slows down

Driving through the mountains of Taitung County

Taitung (and the surrounding county) is my favorite part of Taiwan. It’s located on the east coast, towards the south of Taiwan. While the south is known for being laidback and the east for its beautiful nature, Taitung has this nice blend of a chill, nature-driven vibe. If the south is one level of chill above the north, then Taitung is one more level of chill above the south.

Taitung city itself feels more like a big town – small, walkable, and very laidback, in a way that’s different from cities like Tainan and Kaohsiung. It’s the kind of place where things just move slower. You can feel it as soon as you arrive. Surrounded by mountains on one side and coast on the other, the lifestyle here blends city conveniences with the calm flow of nature. People here don’t rush, they really just take life slowly and enjoy.

While the city itself isn’t especially “charming” in the way Tainan is, it’s a place that feels easy to settle into. There’s a very relaxed atmosphere here where you can imagine a slower and more grounded day to day life. In town, you can visit the local market, cafés, and shops, but most of the highlights are in the surrounding area – driving or biking along the coast, visiting small coastal towns like Dulan, or heading inland to places like Chishang for rice fields and open landscapes.

If you want to base yourself somewhere peaceful with access to both nature and city conveniences, Taitung is perfect. It’s the kind of place where you can slow down and let the days unfold. If you have the time, I would highly recommend visiting this hidden gem corner of Taiwan, where nature and town perfectly intersect.

Hualien: a coastal city of the east best used as a base for nearby nature exploration

Nearby nature outside of Hualien

Hualien is a small city on the east coast of Taiwan. I did like Hualien, as I think all cities in Taiwan are rather enjoyable, but I didn’t find the city itself to particularly stand out in any way. Compared to Taitung, Hualien feels a bit bigger and has a slightly more “city-like” feel, while Taitung leans more towards “big town” feel.

Hualien is a relatively calm and comfortable city, with plenty of food and drink options, a night market, and easy access to the sea. But most people come here as a base for exploring nearby nature or as a stop along the east coast. Specifically, it’s a popular base for exploring the nearby Taroko National Park, some of Taiwan’s most stunning nature. Hualien is the kind of place where you spend your days out exploring, then come back to a slower, easygoing city. It’s a nice place to spend a few days if you want a mix of city comforts and outdoor exploring.

Alishan: peace and softness amongst forest, mountains, and rolling tea plantations

Walking along the railroad at Alishan National Park

Alishan is one of the most serene and atmospheric places in Taiwan. I really, really liked it here and found it a good place slow down, breathe in the fresh mountain air, and just be still in nature. Set high in the mountains, it feels completely removed from the rest of the country – cooler, quieter, and wrapped in mist. It’s less about “doing” a lot and more about just taking it all in.

Most people come for the famous sunrise views, forest walks, and mountain scenery. You can wander through cedar forests, walk along peaceful trails, and take in views of layers of mountains and clouds rolling through the valleys. The area is also known for its tea plantations, with rolling hills of neatly lined tea fields that add to the calm, almost dreamlike feeling.

It can get a bit crowded around the main tourist areas, especially at sunrise, but once you step away from that, it’s incredibly peaceful. While most people come for just the main tourist attractions, I would recommend spending a few days and just taking it all in. You can spend a day hiking amongst the forest and mountains of Alishan, a day soaking in the scenery of nearby tea plantations in Shizhuo, and a day exploring the bamboo forests and cute town of Fenqihu. Overall, Alishan is less about checking things off a list and more about just being in nature — breathing in the cool air, walking slowly, and enjoying the quiet.


A few off the beaten path spots that I loved:

  • Dulan – One of my favorite spots in Taiwan, Dulan is a tiny countryside town nestled between the mountains and the sea. It’s one of the few places in Taiwan with a noticeable traveler and expat scene, known for its alternative, laidback lifestyle. People come to slow down, and often end up staying longer than planned. See my full guide to Dulan here.

  • Luye & Chishang – These small countryside towns are set in a beautiful valley in the east of Taiwan. Surrounded by rice fields, mountains, and wide open space, this area feels rural, quiet, and refreshingly slow. The peaceful landscapes are a big contrast to the big cities, and it’s a perfect place to unwind, take in nature, and enjoy a more local side of Taiwan.

  • Meishan – A small mountain town near the base of Alishan, Meishan is probably the most unknown spot on this list. It’s a small, local town surrounded by tea plantations and forested hills, with a slower, more traditional feel. The few people that come are only passing through on the way to Alishan, but it’s worth lingering if you to experience a local, quiet, and pleasant town of Taiwan.

  • Shizhuo – Shizhuo is a very small mountain village surrounded by tea plantations near the base of Alishan. It’s a great place to base yourself as you explore the Alishan region. It’s more quaint and less crowded than Alishan, with scenic walking trails and peaceful viewpoints right outside your door. I really enjoyed spending a few days here, slowing down, sipping good tea, and inhaling the beautiful views of clouds rolling through mountains everyday.

  • Hengchun – Hengchun is a laid-back town in the south that offers a more relaxed alternative compared to nearby resort areas, such as Kenting, for exploring Taiwan’s beaches. The town itself has a local, lived-in feel, while still being close to surf spots, beaches, and national parks. It’s the kind of place where you can spend your days in the sun and evenings wandering around and taking it easy.

Dulan, a tiny countryside town nestled between mountains and sea, my favorite place in Taiwan

The beautiful coast of the south, near Hengchun and Kenting

Shizhuo, home to amazingly peaceful rolling hills and tea plantations

How long to spend in Taiwan

Before my first trip to Taiwan, I asked a friend who had just been how long he’d recommend. He said he spent five weeks and it felt just right. After traveling around Taiwan twice now, I’d agree. Five weeks is the ideal amount of time if you want to see a lot of the country and really get a feel for everything it has to offer.

If you’re only visiting Taipei, you could spend as little as 4–5 days. If you want to cover a couple of major cities, like Taipei and Tainan or Kaohsiung, about a week is enough. But if you’re hoping to experience both the cities and the nature, you’ll want at least two weeks.

I once took a friend around Taiwan in two weeks and while we saw a lot and he got a good introduction, it definitely felt rushed and we skipped over places I would’ve loved to include. With 3–4 weeks, you can move at a more comfortable pace and get a well-rounded experience. And with five weeks, you can see just about everything without feeling like you’re constantly on the move.

 

The mountains of Yamingshan National Park, just north of Taipei

 

The only Taiwan itineraries you’ll ever need

  • If you only have a few days, I would recommend to stick to Taipei, the capital and main city of Taiwan. There’s a lot to see and do within the city, many day trips you can take, and it’s a nice city to just exist and take in. See my Guide to Taipei for ideas on how to spend your days exploring.

  • Taiwan city trip

    • Option 1: Spend 1 week in Taipei and the surrounding area. You’ll be able to see the sights, really get a feel for the city, experience a normal day in the life, and take nearby day trips to go hiking or visit the coast.

    • Option 2: Split your time between 2 cities. Spend 4 days in Taipei and 3 days in Tainan or Kaohsiung. This will allow you to relatively leisurely explore two cities. Choose Tainan for a smaller city with cute walking streets and a famous food scene that feels more like a quaint town, or Kaohsiung for a major city known for its art and music scene that also offers laidback parts of town.

    • Option 3: Split your time between 3 cities. If you want to pack the most in, spend 3 days in Taipei, 2 days in Tainan, and 2 days in Kaohsiung to get a taste of the 3 main cities of Taiwan. You’ll experience the cultural capital and hustle of Taipei, wander around small, cute streets in Tainan, and experience a mix of both big city and quaint areas of Kaohsiung.

    Balanced route to visit both city and nature

    • Option 1: Visit Taipei and 1 nature spot. Spend 3-4 days Taipei and 3-4 days in one of the nature areas: Alishan, Hualien, or Taitung. Alishan provides a soft, peaceful forest and mountain setting, with nearby tea plantations to explore. Hualien provides dramatic mountains and cliffs of Taroko Gorge as well as the coast. Taitung provides a laidback countryside setting surrounded by mountains, valley, and coast.

    • Option 2: Visit a southern city and 1 nature spot. If you prefer to visit the south of Taiwan instead of Taipei and experience a slower side of Taiwan most tourists don’t see, do 3-4 days between Kaohsiung and/or Tainan, and 3-4 days in one of the nature areas: Taitung, Hengchun/Kenting, or Alishan. Taitung and Alishan will give you what I mentioned above. Hengchun/Kenting is Taiwan’s most southern area, where the tropical beaches are.

  • If you have 2 weeks in Taiwan, you can get a pretty good taste of what Taiwan has to offer. There will be time to explore cities, small towns, and nature. I took my friend on a 2 week tour through Taiwan and we agreed it was a great trip. We got to see a lot of variety, though it was more rushed than we would have liked, and we did have to pick and choose between some spots.

    • Option 1: The best taste of everything Taiwan has to offer

      • 3 days Taipei – See the main sights of the main city of Taipei

      • 3 days Alishan – Go for hikes and enjoy the peaceful forest, mountain, and tea plantation setting

      • 2 days Tainan – Walk around the various cute pedestrian areas of this small city

      • 2 days Taitung – Rent a car or scooter and drive along the coast, through the mountains, and into the scenic valley, exploring the countryside nature of Taitung County

      • 2 days Kaohsiung – Stroll around the Yancheng Art District, visit Cijin Island, and eat at the famous Liuhe night market, giving you a taste of the city parts as well as the slow parts of Kaohsiung

    • Option 2: See a lot of the country while also slowing down a bit

      Spend one extra day in each city to slow down and spend some time wandering, exploring, and getting a feel for what life really feels like in each of these cities, beyond just seeing the main sights. Then, choose only one nature spot to explore in more depth and not rush. I would recommend choosing between Alishan (soft forest and mountain nature) or Taitung County (peaceful countryside with mountains, coastline, and valley).

      • 4 days Taipei

      • 3 days Tainan

      • 3 days Kaohsiung

      • 4 days in Alishan or Taitung County

      • Or, for less city time and more nature time, I would recommend skipping Kaohsiung and seeing both Alishan and Taitung County

  • If I were to choose an ideal length of time for someone to really get a good taste of all Taiwan has to offer, I would probably choose 3-4 weeks. Personally for me, I travel slow and enjoy the occasional day at a cafe, reading my book, writing in my journal, or simply doing nothing, and would prefer 5 weeks. But as most people don’t spend so many days “chilling”, here’s how I would recommend spending 3-4 weeks getting a good taste of Taiwan.

    With 3+ weeks, you should definitely do a full loop around Taiwan. Generally speaking, the west coast is known for city life, the south has tropical beaches, and the east has dramatic and beautiful nature with mountains and coastline. Below I’ve outlined a clockwise loop starting from Taipei, which will allow you to go from city, to nature, to city. You could also go counter-clockwise from Taipei, you’d just be front loading your city time and ending with nature time.

    • 5 days Taipei

    • Make your way down the east coast

    • 3 days Hualien and Taroko Gorge

    • 5 days Taitung County

    • 3 days Hengchun (optional - if you don’t feel like beach time, you can skip this and add Sun Moon Lake in the highlands)

    • Make your way up the west coast

    • 3 days Kaohsiung

    • 3 days Tainan

    • 3 days Alishan

    • 2 days Taipei

Getting around Taiwan

Tainan’s lively but charming city center

Should you rent a car?

Taiwan is very well connected by public transit, so if you’re mainly sticking to cities and the main sights, you won’t need a car at all. Getting around is easy and convenient, both between cities and within them.

Where a car becomes nice is if you want to spend more time in nature, especially in the mountains or along the east and south coasts. I’ve never had a car on my trips and it’s been totally fine, but I have felt a bit limited in how much I could explore nature.

A good middle ground is renting a car in scenic places like Hualien or Taitung in the east coast, using it to explore the surrounding area, then returning it before moving on. Another great way to explore is by scooter. It’s wonderful to cruise around the east and south coasts by scooter, though you will need an international driving permit (IDP) that covers not only cars, but also motorcycles.

Traveling the west coast

The west coast is very well connected by both regular train and the high-speed rail (HSR). The HSR takes you from Taipei in the north to Kaohsiung in the south in about 2 hours, with stops at major cities along the way. One thing to note: HSR stations are sometimes separate from the main train stations, so double check where you’re arriving.

Traveling the east coast

There’s no high-speed rail on the east coast, but it’s well connected by regular train, making it easy to get from one major area to another. For example, going from Taipei to Taitung takes about 4 hours. In Hualien and Taitung, the two major cities in the east, there are a number of local sightseeing buses that allow you to do some basic exploring on the east coast. To really explore the area though, you’ll want a car or scooter. Public transit will get you between towns, but not deep into nature.

Traveling the south coast

The south coast is Taiwan’s most popular place to enjoy tropical beach life. The sun is always shining, and water always blue. The area in the south is called Kenting, though there are a few small towns that make up the area. To get to Kenting, you can either take the bus from Kaohsiung, or drive. To get around Kenting, it will be most convenient to have a car or scooter. The bus will take you to the major sights, but won’t give you much freedom to explore around. If you want to visit this area, I would recommend either renting a car in Kaohsiung or Taitung and driving down, or taking the bus and then renting a car or scooter once there.

How to get around within the city

Found the Wishing Wall while getting lost exploring the little streets of Tainan

In big cities like Taipei and Kaohsiung, it’s very easy to get around using transit. Though large, the cities are well connected by MRT (the subway system) and bus. Smaller cities like Hualien, Taitung, and Tainan don’t have MRT, but they do have good bus systems. Within any city, you’ll be able to get around easily by taking transit, walking, or YouBike.

To take the MRT and bus, you’ll need an EasyCard, which you can pick up at any metro station. You can top up the card at any metro station or 7-11. To take the train or bus, simply tap your EasyCard when you enter and exit the train station or bus.

YouBike is another popular and convenient way to get around. YouBike are bicycles that you can pick up and drop off at any YouBike station. It’s cheap and there are stations all around the city, making it a convenient method of transportation. To use one, you’ll first have to setup your EasyCard for YouBike. You can do this in the YouBike app or website. A Taiwan phone number is required. Without one, you can do one-time purchases and pay by credit card through the app.

How to take the train between cities

First, you’ll want to find the train schedule online. The easiest way to find the schedule is by Googling your route (e.g. “Taipei to Tainan train”). Then, you can either purchase tickets online (Taiwan Railway for regular trains and HSR for high-speed rail) or in-person at the station.

On weekends and holidays, trains can fill up and I would recommend purchasing your ticket online in advance. On weekdays, trains generally won’t be full, and it’s fine to purchase them directly at the station, though you can still purchase them online if you prefer. At the station, there’s both a kiosk machine and people working at the ticketing booth that you can purchase from.

For longer distances, I would recommend buying a ticket with a reserved seat. Non-reserved seats are a very similar price and usually full, so you’ll oftentimes end up having to stand. The only time I take a train with a non-reserved seat is if I’m not going a far distance and the trains with reserved seats are already full.

Taiwanese food guide

Even though I was born and raised in the US, I very much grew up in a Taiwanese household eating lots of Taiwanese food everyday. Even at 30 years old, when I come to Taiwan and eat my first cong zua bing, my favorite breakfast food, I feel at home immediately.

I won’t even pretend I can put together a comprehensive list of all the local foods you must try, but I’m going to do my best to share the most famous dishes, my personal favorite dishes, and explain how the food culture works in ways that you might not be familiar with.

Taiwanese food culture

Food culture is HUGE in Taiwan. There is seriously an abundance amazing and cheap food everywhere. In big cities like Taipei, there are convenience stores, bubble tea shops, street food stands, markets, bakeries, and restaurants at every corner. Even in smaller cities, you’ll still find an abundance of these everywhere.

  • Night markets – Taiwan is famous for its night markets. I think they’re the most famous Asian country for this. Night markets happen at night, on the street, and it’s when dozens and dozens of food vendors come and sell food on the street. Normally the streets are fully blocked off and pedestrianized for this. It’s a very lively time and the food is cheap and delicious.

  • Bian dan – These are Taiwanese lunch boxes, very traditional. Many westerners refer to this style of food as the buffet, as there are dozens are traditional Taiwanese foods prepared, and you can choose which ones you like. You’ll choose between a variety of meat and vegetable dishes which will then be served with rice.

  • Bubble tea shops – These are at every corner and are a delicious and refreshing drink at anytime. You just need to be careful not to have too many! It’s essentially a tea based drink, with the option to add milk and any other toppings. Bubble refers to tapioca, also the same as pearls, which is an optional topping. The most popular drink is Pearl Milk Tea (black milk tea with tapioca). My favorite is Taro Fresh Milk (taro chunks with milk), Oolong or Jasmine Milk Tea, and Passionfruit Green Tea with aiyu jelly.

  • 7-11 – I think Taiwan has the most number of 7-11’s for an area its size. The 7-11 culture is pretty amazing I must say. There’s one literally everywhere and they are open 24/7. Not only that, but the food there is actually quite decent. You can find solid frozen meals which they’ll heat up for you, as well as decent enough grab and go items like onigiri and sandwiches. There are also ATM’s inside very 7-11.

  • Unusual things to note:

    • We have a lot of coffee shops, but they tend to open late, usually around 10 or 11am.

    • Local Taiwanese breakfast spots open early, around 5 or 6am. While the food is great, the coffee is not. If you’re looking for an early morning fix and the coffee shops aren’t open yet, your best bet is the coffee at 7-11.

My favorite dishes

  • Scallion pancake roll with egg (cong zua bing) – My favorite breakfast item! It’s a typical Taiwanese style pancake with scallion, fried, rolled up, and served with sweet and savory soy sauce. Make sure you ask for an egg with it, which will be fried and rolled into the pancake.

  • Scallion pancake (cong you bing) – The same as the above but just the pancake without the egg and sauce.

  • Fan tuan – Kind of a Taiwanese rice burrito. It looks like a burrito but the wrapping is rice, and inside is a combination of meat, Taiwanese fried donut, pork floss, and maybe a little bit of veggies. It’s a bit hard to describe and probably imagine, but it’s a delicious breakfast item that you have to try.

  • Soy milk (dou jiang) – A very popular breakfast drink! I like it warm and lightly sweetened. One of my favorites. A very local pro-tip is to dip youtiao (a long fried donut) into the warm, sweet soymilk. The youtiao is quite oily, but it’s a nice combination to try once.

  • Taiwanese bakeries – Most people probably don’t think of Taiwan when they think of bread and bakeries, but Taiwanese bakeries are one of my favorite things in this country. The bread is very, very good, but a different type of bread compared to traditional bakeries in the west. My favorite breads are:

    • Pineapple buns (bolo) – Milk buns with a sweet and crispy topping which “cracks” and looks like the texture of a pineapple. There’s not actually pineapple inside. You can get them plain (with nothing inside), or filled with different fillings such as taro, milk custard (my favorite - nai yo), pork floss, and more.

    • Pork floss bread (rou song) – Pork floss is basically a dried pork that’s ground up into something flaky, and it’s absolutely delicious. I don’t eat meat anymore, but this was my absolute favorite when I used to.

    • Garlic bread – The garlic paste they use is just delicious here.

    • Portuguese egg tart – Yes, this is a classic Taiwanese dish as well.

  • Tomato eggs (fan qie chao dan) – This is what it sounds like, yet it’s absolutely delicious. It’s an easy stir-fry of tomato and eggs, eaten with rice, it’s perfect.

  • Dumplings (jiao zi) – Dumplings are a classic. Most are pork based. You’ll be able to find places serving fresh dumplings at every corner. You can get them boiled or pan-fried.

  • Xiao Long Bao – These are Taiwanese soup dumplings. Basically dumplings in a small circular shape, with soup inside. You must try when in Taiwan!

  • Bao zi – These are Taiwanese buns! Normally they are steamed and can have a variety of different fillings inside, from pork (the most common) to veggie to sweet dessert ones like sesame and peanut. You can also

  • Pan fried bao zi (sheng jian bao) – The exact same as the above, but pan-fried, these are also delicious! Normally these will be savory.

  • Douhua – Traditional Taiwanese dessert, the base is tofu pudding and then you can choose what toppings to add such as green bean, red bean, peanut, taro, grass jelly, and tapioca being the standard. It’s then served in a brown sugary water. It doesn’t look like dessert when it comes out, but trust me that it’s good!

  • Shaved Snow Ice – A delicious treat when it’s hot outside! This is shaved snow ice, essentially a milky ice cream that’s ground down to flakes and served with toppings such as fresh fruit, taro, red bean, or more. You can also get shaved ice, the same but instead of the milky ice cream base, it’s ice.

  • Papaya milk (mu gua niu nai) – Papaya blended with milk. You can find this at any fruit smoothie stand at for sure at the night market. It’s absolutely delicious.

Other famous must try dishes

  • Braised Pork Rice Bowl (lu rou fan) – It’s small pieces of pork braised in a savory and slightly sweet soy sauce combination, served over rice. Famous, delicious, and cheap.

  • Beef Noodle Soup (niu rou mian) Another very famous Taiwanese dish made by cooking beef in broth for a long time, usually served as a noodle soup with nice big chunks of beef and a few other veggies.

  • Hot Pot (huo guo) – Another classic. Hot pot is when you have a big pot of broth and add all you can eat fresh meat and veggies inside. This then cooks inside the broth, flavoring it further. You then take your cooked meat and veggies out and eat it with a sauce or along with the broth.

  • Gua Bao – Known as "Taiwanese hamburger," this is a fluffy steamed bun stuffed with braised pork belly, pickles, and peanut powder.

  • Zong Zi – Sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves, steam cooked, with different kinds of rice, pork, peanuts, mushroom and other stuff inside, it’s amazing.

Cong zua bing with egg, my go-to Taiwanese breakfast

Lu rou fan – braised pork over rice, a must try

The famous Raohe Night Market in Taipei

Other useful information for visiting Taiwan

Cash and ATM’s

In big cities like Taipei, most established places like restaurants, accommodations, department stores, and grocery stores, will all take credit card. But if you visit small, family-run restaurants or street food stands, they are usually cash only. In smaller towns and cities including places like Tainan and Taitung, most places are cash only, including restaurants and sometimes even accommodations. In countryside villages, it will be virtually cash only. Fortunately, there are ATM’s all over, including inside all 7-11s, making cash withdrawal easy. The ATM fee is also low, only 100 NT ($3) per transaction. In general, I would recommend having some cash on you at all times.

English and language in Taiwan

Surprisingly for how developed of a country Taiwan is, English is actually not that widely spoken. In restaurants, hotels, and other places frequented by tourists, people generally speak enough English to communicate with tourists, but not to the level where you can have a real conversation and get to know them. In the very local shops and restaurants, which are mostly run by the older generation, you can expect virtually no English.

The national language of Taiwan is Mandarin Chinese. However, the older generation, such as my grandparents, actually grew up speaking Taiwanese before Chinese became the official national language in 1945. Though most of the older generation have now also learned Mandarin Chinese, you’ll still hear many of them preferring to speak Taiwanese, especially in the south.

Menus are pretty much always written in Chinese. Instead of ordering directly with a waiter, there’s normally a paper menu where you mark off what you want, and then hand them your order. I recommend using the Google Translate app to take a photo of the menu and translating it to your language. Do be warned that Chinese to English food name translations are oftentimes a bit nonsensical. If you can’t understand the translation of something, I’d recommend just trying to use English to ask what it is. If you’re adventurous, it would also be fun to order something completely at random! Taiwanese food is pretty much all delicious, so it would be a great culinary adventure.

Tourism culture in Taiwan

Taiwan is not a heavily frequented country amongst foreign tourists. There is a lot of weekend tourism amongst the Taiwanese population, mostly those from Taipei looking for a city escape. Because of this, you likely won’t meet a ton of other (foreign) travelers on your trip. If you’re backpacking, you might be one of very few backpackers in most places, so don’t expect a super social trip where you’ll meet a lot of people. Because of this, I think Taiwan would be most enjoyable for those traveling in a group, such as as a family, in a couple, or with friends. Or if you’re solo traveling, you should be okay with possibly having a lot of time with just yourself. That said, in certain spots, like Dulan, you’ll be able to meet many other backpackers.

You might be surprised then, that there are actually tons of hostels in Taiwan. However, Taiwan hostel culture is not like that of Southeast Asia. You’ll find mostly Taiwanese people staying at hostels, and the level of cleanliness is very high. It’s mostly a more affordable option for people to stay, as opposed to a social hub. Though you will still meet friendly people and find the occasional social hostel.

Idyllic countryside setting of Dulan

The charming small town of Hengchun

Weekend artisan market in Yancheng, the art district of Kaohsiung