Guide to Koh Phayam: the hidden backpacker gem of southern Thailand

the perfect place to take it slow, catch sunsets, enjoy cool bars, local restaurants, and fellow travelers that match the vibe

Why I loved Koh Phayam

Koh Phayam is a tiny little off-the-beaten-path backpacker gem island, nestled off the west coast of southern Thailand. While there are dozens of hot spots in the south that draw tons of tourists, such as Koh Tao, Koh Samui, Koh Phangan, Koh Phi Phi, Phuket, etc etc, not many people know about Koh Phayam. And that’s exactly why I liked it so much. While Koh Phayam is very small and relatively under the radar, it's an awesome island that packs a punch! It’s perfect for the traveler that likes to get off the beaten path, who is looking for a more chilled out vibe where there’s not much to do besides chill, hangout, get a beer on the beach at sunset, and catch the occasional wave (yes, you can surf here, though the swell is inconsistent). It’s the kind of place where you can find yourself comfortable chilling with like-minded people in a laidback environment, and continue extending and extending your stay. The overall vibe is lowkey and rustic, yet there are tons of cool bars and cafes, even some of my favorite in Thailand.

Contents

How to get to and around Koh Phayam

When to go to Koh Phayam

How long to stay in Koh Phayam

Where to stay in Koh Phayam

What to do in Koh Phayam

Where to eat, drink, and party in Koh Phayam

Coworking in Koh Phayam

How to get to and around Koh Phayam

Koh Phayam is off the southwest coast of Thailand, very close to the border of Myanmar. To get to Koh Phayam, you’ll need to make your way to Ranong, the closest city on the mainland of Thailand, and then take a boat from Ranong to Koh Phayam.

Getting to Ranong

• Ranong has an airport and depending on where you are coming from, it may be best to fly

• From Bangkok, you can fly to Ranong airport in 1.5 hours, or take the bus which takes around 8 hours. Both are good options and depends on your budget and the amount of time you have

• From other Thai islands or parts of southern Thailand, you will be able to find some sort of combination of busses and vans to get you to Ranong. I recommend checking 12goasia, inputting your to/from locations, and booking a route from there. I find this the easiest, compared to figuring out individual busses and vans on your own, since will take care of the entire route for you including guaranteed connections.

• I came from Kaoh Sok and booked through 12goasia, and took a combination of busses, vans, and taxis, all of which was taken care of through the 12goasia booking.

Getting from Ranong to Koh Phayam

• If you booked through 12goasia to get you all the way to Koh Phayam, all parts of the route and connections should be guaranteed. Meaning, the boat from Ranong to Koh Phayam should be sorted for you.

• If you got to Ranong individually, you will need to then take a boat from Ranong pier to Koh Phayam.

• The speedboat rides takes about 45 minutes from Ranong Pier to Koh Phayam, and you can find the schedule and book tickets online at 12goasia.

Getting around Koh Phayam

I would highly recommend renting a scooter to get around Koh Phayam. The easiest would be to rent one when you arrive at the port. There’s plenty of scooter companies around and you can get a scooter for 200-300 baht / day ($6.50 - $10). The island is small, only about a 15 minute drive from one end to the other, still you will want to have a scooter to be able to explore all the cool spots there are around.

When to go to Koh Phayam

The best time to visit the west coast of the Thai islands, which includes Koh Phayam, is during the dry season, November to April. The wet/monsoon season runs from May to October, and during this time, the island will experience heavy rain. The heaviest rainy period is from August to September. You’ll want to avoid rainy season as much as possible. And what’s nice about this little hidden gem of an island, is that even during high season, the island is not packed with tourists.

Where to stay in Koh Phayam

Getting a lay of the land

Koh Phayam is really small, only about 15 minutes drive from one end to the other, so no matter where you stay, everything will still be accessible and convenient by scooter.

There’s one main road that runs through Koh Phayam. Along this road, you’ll find several local restaurants and cafes. Since there are no cars on the island, it’s a peaceful and idyllic drive through the island.

The area around Long Beach (Aow Yai) is the most lively part of the island. There, you’ll find plenty of accommodations, ranging from budget bungalows to nice hotels, as well as beach bars and restaurants. Long Beach is also a beautiful place to catch sunset from, and where you can surf and play beach volleyball. While it’s the most lively area of Koh Phayam, it’s still very laidback and peaceful, as the island doesn’t see that many tourists in general.

Staying around Long Beach is the most convenient, since you’ll be at the beach for sunset everyday and it’s near to many nice cafes and restaurants. For a quieter area, you can choose a spot inland around Rabbit Bungalows.

Aside from the places along the main road and Long Beach, you’ll also find plenty of restaurants, cafes, and bars tucked in various parts of the island, all with their own unique charm and stunning views.

Here is a map of Koh Phayam.

Accommodation recommendations

• Tropical Hostel – Definitely the best place for a backpacker to stay on the island. The dorms are nice, the staff is friendly, and the vibe is social, organic, and laidback. It’s the perfect place to meet people without being a party hostel, and it’s also a great place to just chill out and read a book in a hammock. The location is great, only a few minute walk to the beach with several nice cafes and restaurants nearby. They also have tents, which offer a “private room” option, and the tents are actually really comfortable and nice!

• Jungle Camp – Another budget spot, this place has a few glamping tents, each with a queen size bed and its own private bathroom outside of the tent. It’s where people from Tropical Hostel would go to have some me time after a few days of being social at the hostel. The tents are very nice, and the private bathroom is a nice touch, but they do get quite hot during the day.

• Rabbit Bungalow – This place has a few bungalows and dorm rooms. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it, as the vibe here is not as social and is oftentimes where people from Tropical Hostel went when it was full. That said, since it’s less social and a bit further away from the places to go, it can be a solid option if you’re looking for something quiet while still being around people.

• Little Hut Bungalow & Café – Bungalows that are simple yet nice. In a good location on the island, close to the main road with cafes, restaurants, and the beach, but still quiet and peaceful.

• Phayam Paradise Resort – I didn’t stay here, but it looks like a nice bungalow and in a more quiet part of the island. Look for something in this area if you want to be away from the liveliness of Long Beach, but still have everything accessible within a 5-10 minute drive.

What to do in Koh Phayam

• Visit Hin Talu Beach

  My favorite beach on Koh Phayam, Hin Talu beach is a beautiful beach with unique rock formations in the middle. When you arrive, you can go to the left for a wide open beach, or to the right, past the rocks, for a hidden little bay.

• Catch sunset at Long Beach

  Long beach is as it sounds, a loong stretch of beach. It’s very large and wide, with lots of cute little restaurants and beach bars along it. It’s never too busy, as Koh Phayam doesn’t have that many tourists, but is a nice place to go to be around some liveliness. Sunsets are especially beautiful from here, probably the most beautiful I’ve seen in Thailand. At sunset, you’ll also see people playing volleyball on the beach, which you can easily join.

• Kayak through the mangroves

  It’s a nice, scenic, and peaceful activity to kayak through the mangroves. You’ll go to Moken Village, where you can rent kayaks. Note that there are two ways to reach the village. I recommend going from the main road to Long Beach, and follow the road down along Long Beach, past Eagle Bar, and eventually you’ll reach the place. It’s a very bumpy dirt road at times, but is a much better road than from the other direction. The other direction has a part of the road completely full of sand, and is almost impassable.

• Visit the amazing Hippy Bar

  Actually, Koh Phayam has many awesome bars, but Hippy Bar is especially unique and well deserves a visit. It’s essentially a bar built into a shipwreck on the beach, and is just awesome. You have to go see it for yourself, and it’s also a nice place to catch sunset from.

• Get coffee from Island View Cafe

  Again, there are tons of nice cafes on Koh Phayam, but this one stands out as my favorite. The views are absolutely stunning. Make sure to go up the stairs to the view of the sea, and not just to the rooftop of the restaurant.

• Try life changing duck soup at the Seaview Restaurant

  Many people say this is the best duck soup they’ve ever had. I don’t eat meat so I personally can’t vouch for it, but I would give it a shot! Plus the views are very nice at this local restaurant up on a hill.

• Go for a surf!

  Believe it or not, Koh Phayam is one of the few places you can actually surf in Thailand! It doesn’t get great swell and for much of the year you can’t surf, but still you’ll be able to find some days to enjoy 2-3 foot waves. There are a few places to rent boards and take lessons from - Phayam Surfers is one that’s right at the beach.

• Visit Koh Chang (Noi)

• The very undeveloped, rustic, and beautiful island of Koh Chang (Noi) is just north of Koh Phayam, and you can reach easily it by boat. I specify Koh Chang (Noi), so it’s not confused with the Koh Chang near the border of Cambodia that is more often visited. From Koh Phayam, you can visit Koh Chang (Noi) for a couple days before heading to the mainland, if you want a very non-touristic experience.

How long to stay in Koh Phayam

Koh Phayam is one of those places where if you go, you were probably looking for somewhere to chill for a bit and see how you feel there. Most people start with booking around 3 nights, and you’ll either realize that it’s enough for you because there’s really not that much do on the island. Or, you’ll realize it’s the perfect place you were looking for to chill, take it slow, and just hang out, and you’ll keep extending, extending, and extending.

I stayed 1 week, and for me, it was perfect. I worked remotely for a few hours during the day and met up with friends from the hostel to catch sunset, dinner, and drinks every night. Days also consisted of beach time, little adventures like kayaking through the mangroves, surf sessions, and enjoying the various cool spots around the island, such as having a coffee and journaling session at Island View Cafe or Hippy Bar.

Most of my friends stayed somewhere between 1-3 weeks, crazy enough! I would recommend starting with 3 nights and seeing how it suits you. Most likely, you’ll end up staying at least a week, and probably even longer. It really is an island with the kind of laidback, simple, yet nice and vibrant vibe, that just lures you to stay longer and longer.

What to eat and drink in Koh Phayam

Coffee, breakfast, lunch

• Island View Cafe – One of my favorite spots on the island. It’s a super nice cafe with the most amazing views, located up on a hill. There aren’t so many food options, but it’s a great place to get coffee.

• Munchie’s Cafe – Nice and chill spot to get breakfast and lunch

• Bilbo's – Amazing cinnamon rolls

• Tropicool – This is the cafe at Tropical Hostel, and the food is very good. Pro tip - the avocado toast here is better than at Munchie’s. If you want weed, there’s also a dispensary here with an owner who’s very passionate about his weed, so this might be the place to get it.

Dinner

• Rainbow – Good local food in a nice, chill environment. It was our go-to spot! But heads up the food takes a long time to come out.

• Payam Seaview – Local food, located on a hill with very nice views. People say the duck soup is to die for (I don’t eat meat so I can’t personally say)

• The Kitchen Table – Really good authentic Italian food. The pizzas are expensive but very good (try the quattro formaggio!). They also have nice wine and good tiramisu. A nice treat yourself dinner.

• Bann Mea – Very good and cheap local food

• Cha Chai Home – A friend of mine swears by the Pad Kah Prao here.

Bars

• Hippy Bar – My other favorite place on the island. Hippy Bar is an indescribably cool bar. It’s built like a shipwreck on the beach, with lots of cool nooks and crannies to hang out in. It’s great for a smoothie and chill time during the day, and for a beer at sunset.

• Rasta Baby Bar – Nice spot on the beach to catch sunset with happy hour cocktails in hand. They have a 2 for 1 happy hour deal on select cocktails. They’re not the best cocktails ever persay, but the vibe is nice and they are cheap with the happy hour deal!

• View Point Café – Cafe on a hill with a nice view that serves wine and cheese!

• Eagle Bar – A very nice and chill bar located on a hill with a stunning view. The drive to get there is quite the adventure, so be careful about having some drinks and driving the road back!

• Turtles Bar – I didn’t go here but always wanted to. Looks like a very nice cocktail bar with cozy vibes.

• Camping Bar – There are tons of beach bars lined along Long Beach, all of which look similar and nice. This was just the place our group ended up on Day 1 and continued going to multiple times throughout the week, maybe just based on tradition. It’s a laidback spot with reggae music playing and seating right on the beach.

Nightlife

While Koh Phayam is small and chill, there are actually parties that happen almost every night of the week! Your hostel or accommodation will probably have the most up to date info on where the parties are each night. You can also check the Koh Phayam Events & Parties Facebook page, where they post about the parties daily.

Working remotely in Koh Phayam

I work part-time remotely, and I found Koh Phayam a perfect place for this – to balance both work, and fun. I usually worked from CoCoCo Phayam, a small cafe and coworking space. They have a few tables in their garden and a few tables inside. I felt very at peace working from the garden here. They don’t serve food, but have great coffee drinks and a few delicious homemade treats. There’s a good local vegetarian restaurant right across the street that you can quickly run to for a lunch break, or even have it delivered to you while you work.

I’ve also worked at Tropicool, the cafe at Tropical Hostel, and Munchies Cafe. Both of these are decent places to work, but have more people around and can be more distracting.

Most places in Thailand, I find that there’s too much going on around to properly focus on my work. Because Koh Phayam is so small with not too much to do besides hang out and chill, I found it a great place to actually be able to get some work done. I had a perfect routine of working during the morning/day at CoCoCo, and catching sunsets, dinner, and drinks with friends in the evenings.