San Juan, La Union
A laidback but vibrant surf town in the northern Philippines, with great surf, a lively nightlife, small town feel, and lovely local community
La Union, the unsuspecting surf town that drew me in for longer than expected
La Union is an interesting place. It’s not somewhere I instantly fell in love with, yet it somehow captured me and convinced me to stay longer than I ever expected. It’s not the most beautiful place, especially in a country full of tropical paradises, nor are there endless things to do. Yet, it’s a place whose small town vibe started to feel more and more like home to me, and before I knew it, my one-week plan had stretched into five.
La Union is a small-to-medium-sized surf town in the northern Philippines. It’s fairly uncommon on the backpacker path, and is exactly why I ended up there. I was looking for a surf spot in the Philippines that was more local and less popular amongst tourists, and it ended up being the perfect spot for that. Since it’s a relatively small town, it’s easy to meet people and feel like you’re slipping into the rhythm of the community, both with fellow travelers and locals.
The town is walkable, about 20 minutes from end to end, with plenty of coffee shops, restaurants, bars, and a very vibrant nightlife scene. Beyond surfing, the other big draw is the party culture. Weekdays feel calm and laid-back, but once Friday hits, the town fills up. From Friday through Sunday, people from Manila flood in looking for a beach escape and a weekend out.
Overall, I really enjoyed my time in La Union. I fell into a comfortable routine of working at my favorite coffee shop, surfing, grabbing lunch at my go-to spots, and running into the same familiar faces day after day. Even if I still wouldn’t say it’s a place I fully fell in love with, its vibe and strong sense of community drew me in and gave me an unexpected place to call home for a month.
Contents
How to get to and around La Union
When to visit La Union
Where to stay in La Union
What to do in La Union
Surfing in La Union
How long to spend in La Union
1 week in La Union itinerary
Where to eat in La Union
Nightlife in La Union
How to get to and around La Union
How to get to La Union
To get to La Union, the most easiest and most common way is to fly into either Manila Airport (MNL) or Clark Airport (CRK) and then take a bus to La Union.
From Manila: From the airport or your accommodation, you can call a Grab to the bus terminal. Several bus companies operate routes between Manila and La Union, with terminals located in various parts of Manila. The most popular bus terminals for this route are located in Cubao and Pasay. You can purchase tickets online, or go to any bus terminal and purchase tickets in-person. Look for buses bound for cities like San Fernando, La Union, Bauang, or Laoag, as they often pass through La Union. Travel time by bus typically is around 6 hours, and a one-way ticket costs 660php ($11).
Partas is one of the most reputable and popular bus companies. You can purchase tickets online or in-person. Here is the Cubao terminal and Pasay terminal. If you’re flying into Manila and doing a quick overnight just to take the bus the next day, it’s most convenient to stay near the Pasay terminal as it’s closest to the airport, but it’s not in a very good part of the city. If you’re spending more than just a quick overnight, it may be better to stay closer to the Cubao terminal.
From Clark: From Clark Airport, you can take a bus to La Union. You’ll first need to travel to the Dau bus terminal (20 minutes away) by Grab, taxi, or tuktuk. At the bus terminal, look for buses bound for San Fernando, La Union. Victory Liner and Partas are two popular bus companies that operate routes to La Union. You can purchase tickets in-person. The journey typically takes around 4 to 5 hours and a one-way ticket costs 450php ($8).
Getting off the bus: The bus will always stop at the bus terminals in the designated cities, but it can also pull over to drop you off anywhere along the road. If your accommodation is on the way, make sure to pay attention to where you’d like to get dropped off as you approach your destination. Simply get your things ready, walk to the front of the bus, and ask the conductor to stop as you approach where you’d like to exit.
How to get around La Union
The main ways to get around La Union are to walk, take a jeepney, or a tuktuk. Within San Juan, La Union, you can walk most places. You’ll likely be staying in the Urbiztondo area, where most of the restaurants, bars, and the main surf break is located. Within this area, everywhere is walkable. If you need to go outside of this area, such as a bit further south along the main road, further north to the main town center, or to San Fernando, you’ll need to take a jeepney or tuktuk.
Tuktuk: To take a tuktuk, simply flag down an empty tuktuk and they’ll pull over for you and take you anywhere you want. Make sure to negotiate a price before getting in the tuktuk. Pro-tip: the white tuktuks are cheaper than the red tuktuks.
Jeepney: These are the things that look like old, retro school busses. You can think of them as a local bus system. They do all have specific routes written on them, but if you’re just visiting, you’re probably not familiar with which line you need to take. I simply wave my hand to flag down the jeepney, tell them where I want to go and ask if they pass by there. If yes, get on the jeepney and the driver will drop you off along the way. If not, just do the same for the next jeepney you see pass by. The jeepney experience is very local and a little intimidating at first, but then very nice to be able to partake in the local experience and actually quite convenient and very cheap.
Scooter: You can also rent a scooter and drive yourself around the area. Within San Juan, it’s not necessary to rent a scooter as places are generally walkable, but if you want to take a day trip to explore beyond, it could be nice to rent a scooter. Check with your accommodation for where you can rent a scooter.
When to visit La Union
High season: Dry Season (November to April)
La Union’s dry season, November to April, is the most popular time to visit. The weather during these months is generally hot and sunny, with clear skies and minimal rainfall. Average daytime temperatures are ~30°C / 86°F, making it ideal for outdoor activities. The dry season also coincides with peak surf season, and is an especially good time for those coming for the surf.
Low season: Wet Season (May to October)
The wet season in La Union is from May to October, and is characterized by higher humidity, frequent rainfall, and the possibility of storms and typhoons. The weather is similarly hot, but the frequent rainfall makes it a less ideal time for tourists to visit.
Where to stay in La Union
San Juan vs. San Fernando
The vibe of San Juan and San Fernando is very different. San Fernando is a completely local town where you’ll find a true local experience. San Juan is where the main surf break is, and also where you’ll find a mix of tourists, locals, hip restaurants, cafes, and bars, as well as local food. For tourists, I would recommend staying in San Juan to be around the comforts of having familiarity around you, as well as a nice mix of other tourists and locals. San Fernando is only a short jeepney or tuktuk ride away, so it’s nice to take a short trip to visit the market and see the town, but you’ll much prefer the vibe of staying in San Juan.
Within San Juan, you’ll want to stay in the Urbiztondo region. This is the main tourist area with lots of restaurants, bars, cafes, and the main surf break. There’s also the main town of San Juan where most locals live, which also has a few bars and restaurants. The Urbiztondo region is the nicest and most convenient part to stay in, which is where I’d recommend staying. The main town is a short jeepney or tuktuk ride away if you want to visit for an afternoon.
Here is a map of the La Union area.
Accommodation recommendations (San Juan)
Lokal Home – I stayed here for over 1 month in both the private room and dorm room. It’s a small accommodation with 4 private rooms and 2 small dorm rooms. The owners, Nikki and Marley, are friendly and welcoming, inviting you things and making you feel at home. Since it’s a small place, everyone (especially those in the dorm) all hang out and get to know each other easily. The dorm is open air and feels nice and breezy. The private rooms are nothing special, but solid, new and clean. Overall, the place isn’t necessarily the nicest in terms of facilities, but it’s solid and I would recommend staying here for the atmosphere - a small, social, family feel vibe.
Muni Nook – A small 1 bedroom apartment located just south of the Urbiztondo area off the main road. It was a good price and cute, albeit small, place to stay. I would recommend for a couple that wants their own place at an affordable price. The location is about a 20 minute walk from town which is a bit inconvenient in the heat. If you’re okay with paying for a tuktuk or taking a jeepney each time, it’s okay. I prefer to stay in Urbiztondo but it was okay for a few days for having our own nice place.
What to do in La Union
Surf!
Easily the main reason people come to La Union is to surf. It’s one of the longboarding capitals of the world, though you’ll still find peaks that pack a punch for the shortboarders out there. Depending on the time of year, there’s waves for everyone, from beginner to advanced.
Visit Tangadan Falls
A nice waterfall about 30 minutes from La Union. It requires a hike in, and depending on where you start, you can make it as short as 20 minutes to as a long as an hour. It’s a nice waterfall with a few cliff jumping spots, and the cold water of the waterfall makes for a nice, refreshing dip. Make sure you take the stairs up the waterfall and do the cliff jump on the backside of the waterfall too! To get there, you can easily take a tutkuk from anywhere in La Union.
Get a massage at Shivasina Spa.
I highly recommend this spa for massage services! I had an excellent massage there, recommended by my local homestay hosts. The ambience is also excellent and very relaxing. A much more professional massage experience than most places I’ve been to in the Philippines.
Spend the day relaxing at Taaw Beach Club
This beach club is located in the main town of San Juan, about 5 minutes north of the Urbiztondo area. You can get there by tuktuk or jeepney + 5 minute walk from the main street. It’s a really nice beach club where you can have brunch, coffee, and drinks, and hang out between both the pool and the beach. It’s also a great spot for sunset and dinner on the beach.
Daytrip to Vigan
Vigan is a very cute and quaint city about 3 hours north of La Union known for its unique Spanish architecture. It’s a small, beautiful city to walk around in and explore. Vigan is known for its textiles and weaving, and one of the most notable things to do is to visit a local weaver to learn about the manufacturing process there. A cafe I recommend in Vigan is Hidden Garden Cafe. On the way back from your daytrip, I recommend stopping at Santiago Cove for sunset and dinner on the beach.
Visit Immuki Island
Immuki Island is a serene pocket of peace on the coast near San Juan. While San Juan and its beaches are a bustling scene with tourists, Immuki Island is a nice place to get away from the crowds and enjoy something different. Instead of a typical white sand beach, this island is actually made of 3 big lagoons set amongst corals and mangroves. It’s a perfect place for swimming and cliff jumping, and great for both relaxation and adventure. I personally didn’t make it here, but here’s a good resource for more information.
Take a trip Baguio
Baguio is a city about 1.5 hours from La Union, and my favorite city of the Philippines. It’s a medium sized city and there’s a university there that gives it a bit of a college town vibe.
Surfing in La Union
I went to La Union in search of a surf spot in the Philippines that was a little more off the beaten path than the well-known, Siargao, and it was exactly that. It has great surf, a small but vibrant town, and is not as popular amongst international tourists. It’s a great spot if you’re looking to surf while also immersing in local culture. It’s especially known for longboarding, and lineups are medium crowded amongst locals and a few travelers, but not nearly as crowded as what you’ll find in the main Siargao breaks.
Surf season
Peak Surf Season (October to March)
The surf season in La Union typically spans the dry season, with the most ideal months being from October to March, when the swell is at its peak. The peak season brings large, consistent swells, producing consistent clean waves under ideal wind conditions. If you're looking for the best surf experience, the peak season is the best time to come. During this time, the beaches are alive with surfers tackling some of the best waves in the country, and the town is alive, with an especially lively, bustling atmosphere over the weekends. The main surf breaks offer a variety of waves, and even during peak season, you’ll find waves ranging from beginner-friendly to challenging, powerful barrels.
Off-Peak Surf Season (May to September)
While the wet season in La Union brings smaller swells, it can still be a good time for beginners to learn. Smaller waves and calm conditions offer a more relaxed surfing experience, perfect for those learning. Occasional larger swells also grant days for all to have fun.
Surf breaks
Monaliza Point – A right hand point break off the main beach of San Juan. This is the most popular surf spot due its easy accessibility and high quality wave. When you’re looking out at the ocean from the beach, you’ll see people surfing to the left, in the center, and further out on the right. This point break is the one further out to the right, in front of Monaliza Surf Resort. The point will have the nicest rides and peeling waves that still pack a punch, but the tradeoff is the crowded lineup. Going to the left or straight out in front of the beach is a punchy beach break that shortboarders can enjoy. It’s faster and messier than the point, but if you can ride a shortboard well, it may be worth going out here for the smaller crowd. Beginner lessons are usually on the whitewash of the main beach break. There are plenty of rental shops directly on the beach where you can rent boards or find an instructor. Board rentals are 200php ($3.50) per hour.
Carille – A right hand point break that’s an absolute heaven for longboarders, located a 5-10 minute drive south of San Juan. On days with big swell where Monaliza is too big and/or messy, Carille becomes a beautifully peeling right hand wave that feels like it goes on forever. It does need bigger swell to work, so on small to medium days, Monaliza is the better spot. To get there, you’ll need to take a tuktuk and ask them to take you to Carille. Tuktuks can fit 2 surfboards, and the driver will tie them down for you! If you’re driving, you can park at the Carille Beach Resort parking lot.
Bacnotan – Located 30 minutes north of San Juan, Bacnotan is a nice break that provides a good and long ride over a sandy bottom. I never surfed here, but I heard it’s a very nice spot if you’re willing to make the trek out!
Surf rentals and lessons
You’ll be able to find tons of surf stands lining the main San Juan beach. They are all “unionized” and offer the same price rentals, so don’t bother trying to haggle or check other shops for better prices. The cost to rent a board is 200php ($3.50) per hour, with half-day and full-day rentals available as well.
If you plan to stay and surf for a while, you may be better off buying a used board and then selling it again when you leave. You can check Facebook Marketplace and also ask some of the local guys if they know of any boards for sale.
For lessons, you can also walk up and down the beach and all the surf stands will be offering lessons, again, at a standardized price. I personally recommend Marley, the owner of Lokal Home, who also does surf lessons and board rentals.
How long to spend in La Union
If you’ve come to La Union, chances are you’ve come for the surf. The town of La Union itself is not huge, nor is there much to do besides surf and chill. I went planning to spend a week there, but it became so much like home to me, and I enjoyed the community so much, that I ended up staying for over a month. Most other travelers thought I was crazy for spending more than a few days there since there isn’t much “to do” nor is it the most beautiful spot to chill in. But, I really enjoyed my time surfing, working from cafes, hanging out at the beach, and going for fun nights out with friends, that it was so easy and comfortable to end up spending over a month there.
If you’re doing a route through the north including Baguio and Banaue and want to just see La Union and take a couple surf lessons, probably 3-4 days is enough. This would let you surf and enjoy exploring and relaxing in town. But if you wanted a place to take it slow and make home for a while, you could easily enjoy 1+ week here.
How to spend 1 week in La Union
Day 1 – Check into your accommodation. Depending on when you arrive, walk around town (the main Urbiztondo area between 7-11 and El Union Coffee) to explore and find a spot for dinner. Catch sunset on the main San Juan beach.
Day 2 – Go surfing or take a surf lesson! Get lunch and spend the afternoon relaxing at Clean Beach Coffee.
Day 3 – Surf or take another lesson! Take a jeepney or tricycle up to Masa Bakehouse for lunch (about 5 min drive north of the main Urbiztondo area). Go for a sunset beer or cocktail on the beach. Dinner out, and if it’s the weekend, go for a little party ;)
Day 4 – Sleep in, go to El Union Coffee and walk around the food courts there for lunch. Have a chill day today and relax at Clean Beach Coffee reading a book, having a drink, hanging out with friends.
Day 5 – Visit Tangadan Falls. Try to go early so it’s not blazing hot while you’re hiking in and out. Catch sunset and happy hour cocktails at Kabsat on the beach.
Day 6 – Go for another surf or surf lesson! Walk around and explore the town more. Find a nice spot to chill on the beach, enjoying your last day. Or, if you feel like exploring, take a jeepney or tricycle to San Fernando, about a 10 minute drive south. Visit the market and walk around to get a feel of this very busy local town.
Day 7 – Catch your bus out of La Union by waiting in front of the 7-11 and flagging down the bus for whichever route you’re taking.
Where to eat in La Union
Coffee, breakfast, and lunch
El Union Coffee – I think it’s the best coffee in San Juan. There’s not much seating at the cafe itself, but you can grab a coffee and take it to the beach right where the cafe is.
The Coffee Library – Great spot for working remote. A nice cafe that’s well lit with plenty of windows and comfortable tables to work at. Coffee and food are solid, though nothing to write home about.
Clean Beach Coffee – Great spot right on the beach. Perfect to chill at for a few hours. Has a menu with coffee, breakfast, lunch, and drinks. Food isn’t particularly standout, but if you’re looking for a place to chill for a while, the vibes make up for it. Also a good spot for working remote.
Karruba Cafe and Bakery – Cute spot with amazing pastries and good breakfast, lunch, and coffee options.
The Lewis House – Located in the actual town of San Juan (5 min north of Urbiztondo), this charming cafe has a very nicely decorated, homey feel. If you want to get away from the crowd, this is a good spot. Great coffee and food, but a bit expensive. Also a good place to work remote.
Masa Bakehouse – Quite possibly some of the best pastries and food you can get in the area. It’s located just outside of the actual town of San Juan (7 min north of Urbiztondo), and well worth the trip there. They have amazing pastries, a delicious menu of Western breakfast options, in a very nice and spacious dining area.
Full House Resort – Delicious and cheap local food at an unsuspecting resort restaurant right on the beach. A very local place and uncrowded with tourists. I highly recommend the Bangus Sisig!
Food court 1 – This food court is surrounding the El Union Coffee area, and my favorite one. I recommend the poke at Chu’s Diner and pasta at Kermit.
Food court 2 – Right adjacent to that food court is another one, you can enter through Tavern by the Sea. I personally never found anything I wanted to eat there, but still nice to walk through and check out.
Food court 3 – This is the another food court called Port San Juan, with an Italian restaurant, burgers, and a couple local food stalls. I recommend the pizza and espresso martinis at La Kantina.
Dinner
Nak Nak – Solid local food option. Popular place with a large selection of good, local food at cheap prices.
Thai-tanic – Delicious Thai food at a nice and casual eatery.
Buhay Gulay – Delicious vegetarian Filipino food.
Amare La Cucina – Amazing pizza in a very cute ambience. It’s about 5 minutes south of the Urbiztondo area so you’ll need to take a tuktuk or jeepney there.
El Chapo’s – Delicious tacos and Mexican food spot.
Funky Tacos – Also a really good Mexican food spot. Rooftop restaurant with nice views and vibes.
La Kantina – Italian restaurant with delicious pizza and espresso martinis!
La Union nightlife
Afternoon or sunset drinks:
Kabsat – Super nice place to enjoy sunset cocktails on the beach. On weekends, get there a bit early to secure a spot on a lounger right on the beach. Also nice a spot to enjoy dinner overlooking the beach. Solid food with decent prices for how stunning of a spot it is.
Clean Beach – Nice big spot right on the beach. Nice place to have a beer or cocktail during the day while chilling by the beach.
Evening drinks:
The Tasting Room – Really great wine (and mezcal) bar in La Union. A small, intimate space with friendly, super knowledgable staff, and a great wine and mezcal selection.
Ugly Bar – Really nice small and cozy cocktail bar with amazing cocktails. Gets really busy after midnight on weekends as an afterparty place, so avoid that time if you want a lowkey cocktail bar experience.
Lakbai Musika – Restaurant on the beach with nice, laidback vibes that has great live music on some nights. They serve local Filipino food that is solid, but not necessarily the best.
Peppercorn – Located in the main town of San Juan (5 mins north of Urbiztondo area), you’ll need to take a tuktuk to get here. This is a really nice and quaint cocktail bar, specializing in gin drinks. Really awesome owners and a nice, local vibe.
Tavern By The Sea – Walk through the food court all the way to the large table area on the beach. On weekend nights, you’ll find tons of locals gathered here for some drinks on the beach. It’s a very lively spot to have an evening drink on the beach.
Party:
Flotsam & Jetsam – Probably THE most poppin’ party place on a Friday or Saturday night. While normally during the week it’s not that crowded, expect a 30+ minute wait to get in on weekend night. It’s a large outdoor area with some space to dance, as well as lots of space to just drink and sit around. Music is of the top 40 variety and the crowd is more basic. Party starts around 10pm here. It’s nice to experience once, but personally isn’t my favorite spot because of the vibe.
The Treehouse – My favorite party spot in La Union. It’s a small spot quite literally on a wooden platform in the trees, with a DJ playing house music and a small crowd getting down to dance. I really love it here. A good time to go is around 11pm.
Ugly Bar – After The Treehouse on a weekend night, the afterparty continues at Ugly Bar. While Ugly Bar is a nice, lowkey cocktail bar most nights, it becomes the most popular afterparty place on weekend nights starting around midnight.
Hara – I’ve personally never been to this spot, but it’s supposed to be another popular party spot to go dancing.
